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For me, a solo, female, non-Muslim traveler allergic to guided tours, Saudi Arabia was a non-option for years. In recent decades, non-Muslims could enter only on business or transit visas. Muslim pilgrims could transit only through major cities to Mecca and Medina. Women had to be accompanied by male guardians.

Years-old rumors of tourist e-visas became reality for 49 nationalities. Traveling women no longer needed male guardians, and women could drive cars as of Suddenly, the idea of women traveling in Saudi Arabia went from laughable to very, very plausible.

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My time had come. I was on the e-visa portal in a hot second and received my e-visa via WhatsApp 15 minutes later. No exaggeration. In November, I began my three-week journey, both solo and with friends, through Saudi Arabia. Here's what it was actually like. I'm a something American solo traveler and blogger passionate about traveling to countries most tourists overlook. Too many people form opinions about countries and their citizens based on exaggerated news; I prefer to come to my own conclusions.

I disagree. There are ways to support people over governments. I traveled independently not on a government-sponsored trip, like many others , stayed with locals and at local hotels, and spent my money at small businesses. Governments and people are separate entities — especially in a totalitarian monarchy like Saudi Arabia — and I don't believe in holding an entire population accountable for the acts of a corrupt few. Riyadh felt Floridian: wide boulevards with shiny skyscrapers and palm trees, malls and luxury shopping as primary entertainment, development concerned more with image than substance.

Think historical ruins being demolished to be replaced by chic cafes with faux-historic feels. The major difference is that in Florida you see people outside walking, cycling, and running. Riyadh is not for pedestrians — cars only.

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As I racked up Uber bills, I noted that streets were often devoid of life. In recent years, the Saudi government made many liberal changes to the law of the land. Public concerts and cinemas became legal. Unrelated men and women can now mix in public. Rules about abayas, the long and traditionally black robe previously required by law, were relaxed. In practice, the changes were less clear. They clearly were intended to present the country as liberal and tolerant to the international community.

There were events and concerts all over Riyadh, including shows with Western women performing in form-fitting clothes and parties with well-known international influencers dancing seductively. But at Riyadh Season, a young Saudi woman in a headscarf and face veil who was dancing was arrested.

At MDL Beast Fest, dozens of local men and women were arrested, accused of wearing indecent clothing. The first time I drove out of the city with a CouchSurfing host — a traveler I met on the platform connecting travelers with locals who can host them in their home or show them around — and some friends, my eyes were glued to the window. Skyscrapers gave way to sand dunes.

Small towns and abandoned mud villages replaced apartment complexes. Some of the villages, such as Ushaiger and Shaqra, are being restored as "heritage villages" for tourists. Even there, it was common to see buildings consumed by time next to manicured mud facades. Driving in Saudi Arabia was relaxed at times, terrifying at others. Main roads were immaculate, perfect for cruising.

But several Saudis drove at concerningly high speeds, with a healthy dose of drastic, last-minute maneuvers. They also didn't seem to enjoy being overtaken by a woman — I was regularly playing leapfrog with fellow drivers.

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Signs of car crashes were everywhere, and even the fanciest cars on the road were covered in dents and scratches. Many of us associate Saudi Arabia with sand dunes as far as the eye can see. Though those do exist in Saudi Arabia, there's far more diversity to the desert. From sudden bursts of green palm trees among desert sands to rocky Martian mountain ranges, the scenery in Saudi was far less mind-numbing than I expected.

Would you expect to see misty green mountains blanketed in clouds in Saudi Arabia? Yeah, me neither.

Steep switchbacks took us through villages scattered across mountaintops and around terraced hills of coffee, vegetables, and khat, a plant chewed by men in the region. Despite the stimulant's illegal status, officials choose to overlook khat cultivation and consumption; it's too ingrained in the local social culture. In most of Saudi Arabia — but particularly in the southern Jazan province — I rarely saw women outside. When I did, they were fully covered in hijabs and niqabs face veils.

The lack of women in public made things difficult for me. Men and women are highly segregated in Saudi Arabia.

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